Thoroughly clean your panel with 99% isopropyl alcohol or as close as you can get to that concentration level like Remover. If a wax stripper or degreaser is required, use the Remover again after degreasing and polishing. Remember to clean tabs with Remover.
Temperature, temperature, temperature.
Did you check the temperature? Are you using a heat gun to improve adhesion?
Your panel temperature, panel material, and glue temperature are VITAL to the success of your GPR repair efforts. These aspects are critical for maximizing tab adhesion.
Material — Steel, HSS, or Aluminum
Panel Temperature — 24 degrees Celsius - 35 degrees Celsius is Optimal
Glue Temperature — High, Smoking Hot, and Runny
What glue should I use?
There are only 3 primary glues to consider for 99% of repairs.
All Purpose This glue is great for most applications. It’s rigid enough to use for quick, snappy hail damage but flexible enough to handle multi-action pulls on larger, more complex repairs. Set Up Time Small Tabs = 20 – 30 sec Large Tabs = 2 – 4 min
Fast, Small, and Simple Dents This glue is ideal for smaller dents. It’s less flexible and requires less time to set up. This allows you to move quicker with more short pulls. Set Up Time Small Tabs = 15 – 25 sec Large Tabs = 1 – 3 min
Slow, Large, Complex Dents This glue is ideal for larger more complex dents. It’s flexibility and increased setup time equates to a longer working time so you can utilize multiple actions to knockdown while pulling. Set Up Time Medium Tabs = 2 – 3 min Large Tabs = 6 – 7 min
Use the same process you would if you were stud welding. Lift the lows. Knock down the highs. But, glue pull repair techniques make this even easier with the added surface area of a glue tab when compared to a welded nail/stud.
REMEMBER: You DO NOT need to grind away paint or damage the door any more than it already is. This is one of the primary advantages of glue pull repair over stud welding. Protect as much of the OEM paint as possible and do absolutely ZERO damage to the e-coat.
Just PULL. After the dent has been pulled you can simply knock down the highs. If you're using a beam or other sustained pulling tool, you can keep that pulling pressure on the dent while you knockdown at the same time around the dent.
Increase the quality of your repairs, decrease the amount of body filler needed, protect the e-coat, retain more of the OEM paint job, and STOP STUD WELDING!
Sanding, Filling and Painting
Skim it, sand it smooth, primer it, paint it! That's it. Steps 1-5 provide you with everything you need to achieve a higher-quality repair than ever before and now you can finish the job however you see fit.